Paris History

 

 

Early Middle Ages

The Capetians

The Bourbons

The 19th century

The 20th Century

 

The history of Paris is inseparable from that of the country of which it is the capital. What happens in the city is, according to the period, the reflection or the forerunner of what is happening throughout the country. The history of Paris is intimately tied to that of France. The originality of the city, with respect to the country, is that, from age to age, we find it in conflict –latent, open or violent– with the central power. Over the centuries, sovereigns and heads of state have had as much need of this prestigious showcase for their power and the riches concentrated within it, as they had been wary of its propensity to insubordination.

 

Antiquity

It was probably around the 3rd century BC that a Celtic tribe, the Parisii, settled down on what is today the Ile de la Cité. This gave birth to a fortified town, the size of a village, successively called Lucotetia then Lutetia: Lutèce. A later occupation of the Seine’s islands (there have been as many as a dozen, disappeared during the dredging of the 19th century, undertaken to facilitate navigation) is likely, but no vestige remains to confirm this with any certainty.During the Gaelic War, in 52 BC, one of Julius Caesar’s lieutenants, Labienus, captured the city and reconstructed it following Gaelic principles combined with Roman influences. During the following century, the 1st century AD, the Gaelic-Roman city emerged from the island and grew, particularly on the Seine’s Left Bank. Thermae were notably built there (visible today at the intersection of Boulevards Saint-Michel and Saint-Germain), and arenas (whose vestiges now serve as the public garden on Rue Monge in the 5th arrondissement).In the middle of the 3rd century, Paris Christianizes, and, in the image of the rest of France and Europe, fills with churches. It is from this period that dates the martyrdom of the city’s first bishop, Saint-Denis.In the 4th century, 360 AD to be exact, Julien the Apostate, Prefect of the Gauls, was proclaimed emperor. This date is capital for the city’s history: Lutèce becomes Paris.

 

Lutèce

 

Early Middle Ages

After the fall of the Roman Empire, threatened by the barbaric invasions, Paris underwent the same unstable fate of the continent’s provinces. If some of the invaders spared the city (this being the case of Attila’s Huns, in 451, repelled from Paris by sainte Geneviève who became the patron saint of Paris; the shrine which enclosed her remains was laid to rest in the Eglise Saint-Etienne-du-Mont), others, on the contrary, seized hold of it. Such was the case, in 508, of the Francs, come from eastern Europe under Clovis, who established there their capital and leader’s residence. Over three centuries, until the departure of Charlemagne from Aix-la-Chapelle, weakening the city’s role and prestige, Paris was to remain in this position.In 885, for the fifth time, the Normands, sailing up the Seine, laid siege to the city: Paris, which until then had submitted to these invasions, was this time efficiently defended by Count Euders who, shortly after his exploit, was elected “King of the Francs”.

Clovis, roi des Francs

 

A century later, in 987, a new political reality came into being Hugues Capet: France. Paris became its capital.

 

The Capetians

They are the kings who made France and Paris. This political function, associated with the development of trade, led to the city’s incredible soar during the 11th and 12th centuries. Several signs testify to these changes. Craftsmen and merchants are organized into powerful corporations, highly active in the renewal of commerce (an important role played by the “Water-tradesmen Guild” which for decades on end was to be in charge of communal administration).?As of 1163, a magnificent cathedral was built which was to be the Notre-Dame de Paris, emblem of the city during the Middle Ages. Between 1180 and 1210, Philippe Auguste created a powerfull wall –several vestiges of which are still visible today– around the city. This defense system was reinforced, upstream, by a barrage of chains across the Seine, and downstream, by two fortifications: the Tour de Nesles, on the Left Bank, and, on the Right, the Dungeon of the Louvre (which owed its name to a place where wolves were hunted), first building block of the splendid palace which, over the next eight centuries, was to be constantly enlarged and embellished.

Notre Dame de Paris

 

This soar was crowned, during the 13th century, by several exemplary creations.?In 1220, the University of Paris is founded and installed in the Sorbonne (where, in part, it still is to be found, but in premises radically modified by Richelieu, on the one hand, and by Napoléon, on the other; thus adding to the city’s political role, an intellectual and cultural dimension. From 1226 to 1270, there is the construction, under the impulsion and patronage of Louis IX (the becoming saint Louis), of the basilica Saint-Denis, the church Saint-Chapelle (today encompassed in the inelegant, pompous Palace of Justice); and finally the completion of the Notre-Dame. From 1300 to 1315, under the orders of Philippe le Bel, was built the Conciergerie whose Gens d’Armes room, with 1800m2, is one of the largest in all France. This period constitutes one of the summits –albeit unjustly unknown– in the capital’s life.The following century, troubled on the international level, was characterized in Paris by many disorders. In 1358, for example, Etienne Marcel, Prevost of the Tradesman (by this title, he centralized the city’s administration and judicial functions and today his statute stands in front of the façade of the Hôtel-de-Ville), rose up against the royal power. The capital of France, by this revolt, opened itself up to the King of Navarre and the English. This first intrusion was, however, to be short lasted. Charles V, King of France, took things in hand and protected the city with a new peri­meter wall (reinforced to the east by a fortress that was to become known as the Bastille), while creating new communication axes allowing Paris to develop along its Right Bank. It was from this period that dates the first public clock in Paris which still decorates –and still rings the capital’s hours, whether they be sad or gay– the Conciergerie’s Clock Tower. The city’s population, at the turn of 14th century, counted some 150,000 souls. Following another revolt against those in power, in 1382, the city lost its ancient franchises and the Tradesmen’s Provost –head of the municipal administration– became a mere officer of the King.

 

Paris, an English city

The Parisians’ revolt against royal power coincided with France’s long conflict with England (the One Hundred Year War) and the Franco-French divisions accompanying it (struggle of the Armagnacs and Burgundians). These disorders led to the fall of Paris in 1408 to the English. In 1429, in reaction to this humiliation, Charles VII, King of France, tired to recapture his capital. During this operation, Joan of Arc, the monarch’s muse and precious supporter, was wounded at Porte Saint-Honoré (a commemorative plate near today’s Porte de la Chapelle recalls this event). This attempt, however, proved in vain, and the English were able to consecrate within the Notre-Dame “their” King of France, Henri VI, who was to reign until 1437, when Charles VII, at long last victorious, managed regain his place in his country’s capital.

Joan of Arc

 

A bustling, prestigious Renaissance

The 16th century confirmed the double role of Paris: political capital and intellectual centre. It was under the reign of François I, around 1530, that began the construction of the Hôtel-de-Ville (today’s seat of the Mayor of Paris is only a 19th-century replica of this monument, masterpiece of the Renaissance), and it was at this period that was founded the College of France (still in existence today). The Louvre, at this time, ceased, so to speak, to be a fortress and became a palace.Closely associated –and even inseparable from it– to the history of France, Paris underwent many a trial and tragic hour. This was the case at the end of the 16th century, when the country plunged into mourning by the religious wars. Paris was Catholic and adhered to the League. During the night of 23-24 August 1572, the bells of Saint-Germain-l’Auxerrois sounded the signal for the beginning of the Saint-Barthélémy Massacre. Over the course of these dramatic and bloody conflicts, the capital imposed its will on the kings who quickly realized they stood no chance of reigning until they were masters of the city. Henri IV, as well, followed this lesson, converting to Catholicism (“Paris is worth of a mass!” he declared) and stormed into Paris on 22 March 1594.

 

Henri IV

 

 

The Bourbons

With the Bourbons, at the turn of the 17th century, the city continued to spread and transform. Given such developments, the first Charles IV, then Louis XIII enlarged to the west the Middle-Ages wall so that it encompassed the Palace of the Tuileries. The capital enriched itself with many new buildings, as it began to take on the aspect we all now know. It was during the first half of the 17th century that were created the Place des Vosges, Hôpital Saint-Louis (according to the wishes of Henri IV), Hôpital Salpétrière (surmounted by one of the oldest domes in the capital), Luxembourg Palace (by Marie de Médicis) and the Palais Royal (then the Palace Cardinal, by Richelieu). At the same time, the Ile Saint-Louis was divided into lots and developed, and the Palais du Louvre, that prestigious symbol of royal power, was enlarged while, ever striving to unify France and make Paris an intellectual Mecca for the arts and mind, Richelieu, in 1635, founded the French Academy.

Louis XIV

 

Louis XIV, both wary of a possible renewal of the Front and anxious to ward off a new confrontation with the Parisian municipality, made in 1653 an original decision: moving the royal court from Paris to Versailles. The “Sun-King” did not for all that neglect the city itself. He worked both to submit his administration to royal power and embellish its appearance. Under the reign of Louis XIV, Paris was to see many realizations: the development of the Marais came to an end, while that of the Faubourg Saint-Germain began. The Paris Observatory and the Manufacture des Gobelins were created, the Hôtel des Invalides and the Hôpital du Val-de-Grâce were constructed. Some of the most remarkable squares in modern Paris equally came into being: Place Vendôme, by Jules Hardouin-Mansart; Place des Victoires, by François Mansart, uncle of the former; Place du Carrousel… Louis XIV was, in a word, as generous with the city he loved as he was strict with the one he feared.Louis XV, while maintaining the Court in Versailles, continued the work of beautifying Paris commenced by his ancestors. It’s during the second half of the 18th century that thus dates the construction of Ecole Militaire (architectural masterpiece by Jacques-Ange Gabriel), the Eglise Sainte-Geneviève (now the Panthéon, by Soufflot), the imposing Eglise Saint-Sulpice, still uncompleted despite 134 years of work (1646 to 1780!), and the development of the immense Place de la Concorde (the obelisk which decorates it, a gift from Egypt to France, was added the following century)…During this period, under the reign of Louis XVI, a new perimeter wall was created, surrounding Paris with fifty-seven “barriers”, levying city tolls on merchandise. This new fiscal rigor displeased, at the time, the Parisians, but left their successors with several new elegant buildings: the rotundas of the Villette and the Parc Monceau, works of Ledoux which were, in a way, also customs posts…

 

A very Parisian revolution

Most of the key events of the French Revolution were set in Paris. It was thus that on 14 July 1789, that the Bastille was taken (the prison, emblem of arbitrary royal power, only housed on that day seven prisoners), symbolic beginning of the vast upheaval of those years. It was there on 10 August 1792, that the Tuileries were taken, marking the fall of the royalty. It was there on 21 September of the same year that the Republic was proclaimed. It’s as well in Paris that Louis XVI was assassinated the 21 January 1793.?And it was there, in 1793 and 1794, during the Reign of Terror, that the “national razor”, as the guillotine was aptly nicknamed, was at work full time… Many administrators of the commune, still fearful of central power, whoever might have been in charge, fell victim to it. The Revolution was characterized, in Paris, by a vast amount of destruction, in particular of churches. In 1793, for example, the statues ornamenting the porch of Notre-Dame were destroyed. Those that can be still seen today were due to the restorations of Viollet-Leduc, and the heads of those that ornament the Gallery of Kings, miraculously recovered in 1977 in a construction site on the Chaussée d’Antin, henceforth are conserved in the Musée des Thermes de Cluny.

The liberty guiding the people, by Eugene Delacroix

 

Napoléon I, crowned Emperor on 2 December 1804 in Notre-Dame, pursued his predecessors’ embellishment of the capital. It was under the First Empire that Paris was enriched with the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel, the Arc de l’Etoile, the bronze column on Place Vendôme, the Eglise de la Madeleine, the Colonnade du Palais Bourbon, and the Palais Brongniart, headquarters of the stock exchange. The Louvre imperturbably continued to grow while gas began to be used to light the streets. The city, according to the 1801 census, had some 550,000 inhabitants.

 

The 19th century

At the fall of the Empire in 1814, Paris, for the first time in more than four centuries, was occupied by the Allies in a coalition against France. From the presence of Russian troops, it was said that the city conserved but one word: bistro. It was by this call (bistro! bistro!), meaning “hurry”, that the Cossacks would call the servants of the establishments where they’d stop off. The restoration of the monarchy (Louis XVIII being succeeded by Charles X) ended with three days of Parisian revolution, the “Trois Glorieuses”, 27, 28 and 29 July 1830, during which the barricades overturned Charles X and brought Louis-Philippe to power. Under the emblem of the tricolored flag, this sovereign was to no longer bear the title of “King of France”, but rather that of “King of the French”. The reign of Louis-Philippe, coinciding with the industrial revolution, was characterized by a considerable increase in the capital’s population (it being the workers’ quarters which, in reaction to the triumph of the bourgeoisie, were to drive forward the 1848 revolution, putting an end of the “July Monarchy”), by the creation, motivated by the memory of 1814, of what was to be familiarly known as the “fortifs” –fortifications, forts and bastions to protect the capital– and, in 1837, by the launch of the first railway line, linking the capital to Saint-Germain. In 1840, the return of Napoléon’s ashes provided the occasion for a magnificent ceremony and the creation, by the architect Visconti, of the impressive marble tomb where the Emperor was interred in the Invalides.

Louis Philippe

 

The Second Empire, which succeeded the Second Republic, was characterized in Paris by vast urban works, undertaken under the direction of Baron Haussmann, Prefect of Paris. It was at this time, one of high industrial and financial prosperity, that were constructed or developed the stations, the Halles, the Opéra Garnier, the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont, the Bois de Vincennes and Boulogne, as well as the creation of the great boulevards and the planning of the Plain Monceau. Metallic architecture triumphed (Eglise Saint-Eugène, copula of the Galeries Lafayette, passages…). These important constructions, reflections of the philosophy of their day, resulted in, within the population, a regrettable segregation, which the past centuries had intelligently managed to avoid. It was from the 19th century that dates the birth of what was to be known as the “chic quarters”, while the “labor classes”, over the years, were cast to the out­skirts. Confronted with the same difficulties as the preceding regimes (opposition of municipal power to central power), the Second Empire was to eat away even more at the attributions of the Mayor of Paris. It was from this period that dates the division of the city into twenty arrondissements, while most of the municipal powers were confided in two Prefects (one for general administration and one for the police, which still exists today), named by the government. At the end of the Empire, the city numbered 1,850,000 inhabitants.In 1870, after the Sedan disaster, which saw the Empire collapse, the Third Republic was proclaimed on 4 September. Faced with the Prussian invasion, the government fell back to Versailles, and Paris, faithful to its tradition of insubordination and revolt, proclaimed in March 1871 an insurrectional regime known as the “Paris Commune”. The bloody repression, which in May closed this episode, resulted in, in addition to the execution and deportation of labor-class leaders, the destruction of a great number of buildings: Palais des Tuileries, Hôtel-de-Ville, Cour des Comptes… With the exception of the Tuileries, too clearly linked to the memory of the former monarchies, all were to be identically reconstructed.The great urban-renewal projects, commenced under the Second Empire, continued under the Third (completion of the Avenue du Bois, today Avenue Foch, Avenue de l’Opéra…). The government, now back in Paris, took possession of the city. The Senate moved into the Luxembourg Palace, and the Chamber of Deputies into the Bourbon Palace. The new Hôtel-de-Ville was inaugurated in 1882. Between 1876 and 1914, the very ugly Basilique du Sacré-Cœur was constructed at the summit of the Butte Montmartre. The 1889 and 1900 World Fairs gave the city the occasion to complete its patrimony: the Eiffel Tower, the Petit and Grand Palais were to be part, henceforth, of the Parisian landscape, as was Pont Alexandre III, built at the same period in homage to the Czar whose liberalities had led to the creation on Rue Daru of the magnificent Cathédrale Saint-Alexandre-Newski.In the carefree euphoria of what was known as the “Belle-Epoque” (which was only really “beautiful” for the triumphant bourgeoisie, while for the working class, it proved particularly hard), the city became drowned with dens of pleasure: cabarets, cafés-concerts (more than a thousand in number at the turn of the century), theaters, etc. It was again around the end of the 19th century that date, for the most part, many of the headquarters of the great banking establishments, still visible on the Grands Boulevards, in the vicinity of the Bourse (Paris Stock Exchange).In July 1900 the first Métropolitain line was inaugurated, designed and constructed by the engineer Fulgence Bienvenüe, whose name was aptly joined to that of Montparnasse as the name of one such Métro station. The decoration of the stations made mammoth use of metal and the “noodle” style of ornaments designed by Hector Guimard.At the turn of the 20th century, a new material appeared on the Paris landscape: concrete. It was used in particular in 1912 by the Perret Brothers for the construction of Théâtre des Champs-Elysées.

 

The 20th century During WWI (1914-1918) the government was forced to retreat from the capital to Bordeaux. Saved by the Battle of the Marne (to which the Parisian taxi-drivers made a decisive contribution), the city nevertheless didn’t overly suffer from the hostilities, except for a few light bombardments.The postwar era was known as the “mad years”, characterized in Paris by an intoxication for wild new music and dances. This was the period of the triumph of jazz, from the tomboy with short hair to a whole series of innovations in intellectual, artistic and social life.

 

Paris in the 1930’s

 

Many Russians, having fled the Bolshevik Revolution, came to settle down in Paris. In their taxis, restaurants and places of worship, they kept the fire of Holy Russia’s soul burning. America, at the same time, started to exercise its fascination, both in the dufflebags of the American soldiers who debarked in 1917, and in music imported from across the Atlantic, the consumer’s society made its appearance. The city’s population, at this time, was record breaking: 3 million inhabitants. While no one was yet thinking of the Great Depression –that of the 1930’s– which was to conclude this carefree period, an unknown soldier in 1920 was interred under the Arc de Triomphe at the Place de l’Etoile. Since this date, the flame which watches over it, has constantly flickered. The 1930’s were marked by great popular manifestations: the anti-parliamentary ones of February 1934, which ended in blood, and those of 1936, which accompanied the birth of the Popular Front.

 

Demonstrations of February 6th 1934

 

After the debacle of June 1940, Paris, occupied by the German army, lost, with the installation of the government in Vichy, its status as the political capital. Those dark years (bombardments, raids, execution of hostages, food restrictions, police regimes, etc.) came to an end on 25 August 1944 with the insurrection of the Interior French Forces and the arrival of General Leclerc’s troops (2nd Armored Division), leading to the capitulation of the occupying armies and the Liberation of Paris. The following day, General de Gaulle was able to triumphantly descend the Champs-Elysées: “Paris martyred, but Paris liberated,” to quote the leader of Free France. Paris, once again, was simultaneously witness and actor on the historical stage of which it was the capital.Unlike the preceding regime (the 4th Republic started in October 1946 and ended in 1958), which had to cope with the country’s urgent reconstruction (Paris itself did not have to deplore considerable damage because of the war), the 5th Republic was to considerably transform the capital.

Paris liberation

 

The end of the 20th century was to see as well the birth of: Unesco’s headquarters, the Maison de la Radio (today, Radio-France), the CNIT and La Défense complex, the Boulevard Périphérique (“ring road”), the Tour Montparnasse, the Seine’s Front Quarter, the Bastille Opera, the Finance Ministry at Bercy, the City of Sciences and Techniques and the Parc de la Villette, the Arche de la Défense, the French National Library… Meanwhile, a museum was set up in the former Gare d’Orsay while the Palais du Louvre, which partly housed offices, was entirely transformed into a museum (“Operation Grand Louvre” with, in particular, the creation of the stunning pyramid, designed by the Chinese architect Pei). The city equally equipped itself in the field of sports (renovation of the Parc des Princes, creation of the Stade de France and the Bercy Omnisports Palace…) and culture (creation of the Georges Pompidou Centre, the Arab World Institute, the Zénith, the City of Music…).At the same time, independently of these monumental aspects, the city modernized and spread: renovation of numerous quarters (including the renowned “Front de Seine,” juxtapositions of towers and contemporary buildings, creation of the Regional Express Network (RER), halfway between train and subway, whose name gives an idea of the city’s extension, the creation in Roissy to the north of Paris of a third international airport, and along the banks of the river the Seine’s expressways. As for the Parisians, they were able to take advantage of a large number of small landscape renovations which rendered the city’s life even more pleasant: creation of public gardens (parks Georges Brassens and André Citroën, and the former Bercy Halles…), strolls (the “ Coulée Verte ” – Promenade Plantée – connecting the Place de la Bastille and the Bois de Vincennes along a former railway viaduct), renovation of the pedestrian quarters (around Rue de la Huchette and the Halles).

The Arch of La Défense

 

Paris, at the end of the 20th century, had lost nothing of its traditional functions: the city was thus, for example, seat of the “events of May ‘68”, a revolt which, starting with a student movement, paralyzed France several weeks running, and the place of great national demonstrations (commemoration of the bicentennial of the French Revolution) and international (football World’s Cup in 1998).After centuries of wariness of central power, the Parisians –who numbered 2,126,000, while the agglomeration itself had more than 10 million– could finally, as of 1977, like the other French citizens, elect their mayor by universal suffrage: Jacques Chirac, Jean Tiberi and Bertrand Delanoë were successively elected to this prestigious office.

 

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